Ugly Cakes: Symbols of Collective Effervescence
The notion of “collective effervescence” created by French Sociologist Émile Durkheim to define the act of partying is necessarily linked to a set of symbols associated to this social practice: when we come together to share a behavior, we co-create a perfectly coordinated and almost choreographed action. In a nutshell, we like to party because we feel united in our intention. Isn’t this some sort of religious act? When we gather as a tribe to have some fun, profane and sacred meet and the objects and practices that represent the act of partying become real totems.
What says more about a party than its cake? I was intrigued by Ugly Cakes, a unique cake design business founded by Veronica Boienti. Her unconventional approach and creativity towards cake design has transformed the industry, and her creations have become a recognizable style and party symbols. Her success stems from three key pillars: impeccable taste, cultural awareness, and personalized customization. I sat down with her to discuss her main inspirations and future endeavors.
The seemingly contradictory name "Ugly Cakes" is actually a clever choice that highlights Veronica’s core value: it’s a deliberate rebellion against the obsession with perfection that pervades social media. The brand is a celebration of imperfection and substance, emphasizing that taste and flavor should take precedence over superficial aesthetics: “My cakes are "ugly" in the sense that they are not meticulously crafted to adhere to unrealistic beauty standards. Instead, they are focused on delivering an exceptional and customized taste experience”
Veronica's extensive knowledge and deep-rooted passion for pastry and baking are evident in her creations. Her upbringing in her father's bakery has instilled in her a profound appreciation for the craft, and she draws inspiration from his expertise whenever she conceives new designs: “My father’s lab is the first place I go to to look for him when I have an idea for a new design. His presence and advice always complete my creativity”.
Veronica's source of inspiration for her cake creations lies in the very essence of pastry making, particularly in the simple, yet profound flavors of traditional baked goods, such as jam tarts and lemon tarts. These treats serve as a reminder that true excellence is possible if it’s based on simplicity. Veronica's passion for innovation drives her to explore the possibilities of flavor combinations and textures, constantly challenging her own instincts and seeking inspiration from the work of other pastry chefs: “Recently I have discovered the rose cake from restaurant Contraste in Milan. The contrast between a complex tasting menu and a simple dessert is such an elegant reminder that simple choices are always the most memorable ones. This dessert really gave me a true sense of the restaurant’s experience, and it also gave a deeper sense to its own name”.
Veronica’s meticulous craft evokes visual beauty and emotional resonance: “I drew inspiration from the baking techniques employed by Princess Sissi’s favorite cakes, and I often use the Lammeck method to create cakes carefully balanced in volumes, colors, and shapes. My passion for designing is so strong I dedicated my studies’ final research and dissertation to the relationship between bakeries interior designs and baked products”.
Veronica's upcoming project for 2024 is a testament after all the hours spent baking and doing research ranging from business case studies such as Christina Tosi's Milk Bar, to exceptional designs such as Seoul’s Greem Café, famous for its black-and-white, bidimensional interior design in contrast with its baked goods. Everything comes together now, as Veronica announces her great upcoming project: “Starting Spring 2024, I will open the doors to my own pastry lab, where I will offer a variety of masterclasses and workshops. I will also host a series of pop-up events and collaborations, bringing the joy of Ugly Cakes to a wider audience”.
One thing we already can tell is that Veronica's pastry shop will be a place for exploration and experimentation, a special place where celebrating is all about the people and the emotions they share, not about the perfection of the cake: "One of the first things I always ask to my clients is to describe something unique about the person they want to celebrate through the cake. Who are they? What do they like? The customized quote is a way to empathize with each other and to embrace the informal moment of a party. The act of celebration is about the people and the emotions they share, not about the perfection of the cake”
Veronica's cakes are about the memories they create. Like a party, we eat these cakes because we feel united in our universal intention: to share and to enjoy the moment with the people we like the most.
